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When should I consider neutering?
From around the age of 5 to 8 months, kittens reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing kittens themselves! Most veterinary surgeries would advise that the best time to have your cats neutered is between 5-6 months. It is advisable to keep your cats in until they are neutered, as they may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age.

Why neuter?
The benefit of having cats neutered far outweighs the consequences and is a very responsible thing for a cat owner to do.
Neutering a cat - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual maturity. It also reduces the risk of certain diseases and reduces the risk of female cats possibly developing a uterine infection. An unspayed female cat can have up to three litters each year, with up to six kittens in each litter. In five years she could have over 20,000 descendants.
Once sexual maturity is reached, the cat will begin to come into season or 'call'. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur every three weeks and will only stop once your cat is spayed. Signs may include rolling around on the floor, yowling or calling, increased appetite and restlessness.

How can I tell if my cat is pregnant?
If you do not get your cat spayed, they cat may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your cat is pregnant until the 2nd or 3rd week of the pregnancy. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples (may change colour & harden to prepare for lactation) and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks.
We would recommend taking your cat to the vets for a check up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet should be able to advise the best course of action.

What changes can I expect after neutering?
In the male, you may find that your cat does not stray as much and therefore is at less risk of being involved in possible road traffic accidents and being involved in fights with other cats. The aggressive behaviour puts an uncastrated male at much higher risk of serious infectious diseases that are transmitted through cat bites. It may also stop him from starting to 'spray' or mark his territory around your home.
Cats usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually very lively again.
It is important to remember that once a cat has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. This is because it may become less physically active due to no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your cat start to put on too much weight.

Every cat is an individual. Like people, some pets put on weight more easily than others and need less food to keep them slim and fit, while others need extra to keep them at their ideal body weight. Feeding guides are as accurate as possible, but some pets may need less or more than this "ideal".
Assess your cat's body condition by trying to feel it's ribs - you should just be able to feel them under a firm covering of flesh. There should be a waist between the ribs and hips and the tummy should be tucked up. Cats tend to get plump, saggy tums first, and then start to put on weight over the ribs. Feed your pet less or more depending on how your cat measures up to this ideal. Once your cat is at the ideal weight further slight adjustments may be necessary.

Most dry foods can be fed either dry or soaked in gravy or with water. As a rule most cats prefer to eat their food dry and it usually becomes less attractive to them when soaked. Some dogs also enjoy the food dry while others may prefer soaking. This is usually the case if the dog has been used to eating a canned food before. Soak the food in warm water and allow to cool before offering it to these dogs. Remember that gravy can be quite salty and there is usually no need to offer this with a dry complete food that contains all the nutrition a dog needs. The time for the food to soak will vary according to the particular food but as a rough guide 30 minutes is usually enough.

Every cat is an individual and like people can have taste preferences. Cat foods are available in many different forms such as chunks in jelly, chunks in gravy or a meatloaf type. If your cat is very fussy warming the food slightly will help to release the natural aromas. Hand feeding can also be very useful to tempt a cat that is convalescing after an illness. One trick is to try offering a "platter" with a little of each different types of food on it and watch for the one your cat shows a preference for. Don't forget that some cats prefer crunching on a dry food.

Kittens can usually be started on the weaning process at three weeks of age and should be fully weaned by 6-8 weeks of age. Canned food can be mashed up and mixed with water to form a gruel. The gruel can then be smeared around the kitten's lips to encourage the food to be licked off. Some kittens will take the food as a mash but make sure there are no big chunks. Dry food can also be soaked and used to make a gruel. Feed little and often and as the kittens get older add less water to the mixture. Many kittens will eat dry food without it being soaked by 10-12 weeks of age while most will manage a canned kitten food at 6-8 weeks.

It is estimated that the average healthy adult cat may spend up to 30% of its time grooming. Yet, being involved in your cats grooming routine is good opportunity for you to spend quality time together bonding with your cat. There are also many other benefits in being a part of this routine.
Grooming not only stimulates the circulation and improves muscle tone, but also minimises hairballs in the stomach by removing loose hairs. This is also an opportunity to spot any problems such as external parasites, lumps, bumps or mats and even hairloss.
Coat condition is also a good indicator of overall health. Normally your cat’s coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes in you cats coat, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise contacting your veterinary surgery to discuss the situation.
However, many cats may experience difficulties grooming themselves for a variety of reasons.

If your cat was not groomed for a young age then she may never have become used to it. It may be a distressing experience for a nervous cat that may be reluctant to be picked up and restrained and may also be painful if the comb or brush catches her skin. If your cat is older he may problems if his dental health is compromised or he has joint pain. If your cat is obese, he may not be able to reach certain parts to groom and may require your assistance coupled with a diet plan!

If you are experiencing difficulties, we have enclosed some advice to increase your cat’s tolerance.
You may need to withhold all grooming for a few weeks. Initially we would recommend that avoids using the traditional combs and brushes as this can cause discomfort and may even make your cat less tolerant of the process. We would recommend the use of a very soft rubber brush, which promotes more of a massage-type of action due to the rubber teeth that are more flexible than ridged comb teeth.
If your cat is happy to come and sit on your lap or near you, you can start to introduce a new routine. Ensure that she is relaxed, talk gently to her and stroke her giving food rewards if necessary. Begin stroking in places that she is very tolerant of being touched. Then, pick up the rubber mitt and brush in these places very gently for a short period of time, giving very small treats. End with a period of stroking again. Do this little and often building up the time you spend using the brush and in different parts of the body. The aim is that your cat will learn to enjoy these positive periods of interaction with you. However, you should always end these periods if your cat shows signs of agitation.

Once your cat is happy to tolerate this you can begin to introduce other brushes, again gently and for short periods of time initially. Allow your cat to get used to the brushes in association with a positive experience. Laying the brushes next to your cats feeding bowl so that she can sniff them and not feel threatened when they are introduced can do this.

There are a number of preparations that can be used to safely treat your pet against fleas. These are available from vets and pet shops. Check that the preparation you use is suitable for the age of animal you intend to treat as puppies and kittens may be more sensitive. Treatments can be powders, sprays (liquid or aerosol), drop on preparations or tablets or liquids to go in food. It is also sensible to treat the home, as there may be flea eggs still in the house. Putting a flea collar in your vacuum cleaner bag is another handy hint.

Firstly you must distinguish between spraying and urinating. Spraying is a deliberate act of communication, which will be done on a vertical surface such as a wall. Urinating is the normal passing of urine onto a horizontal surface such as the floor. Spraying can be a sign of a quite serious upset but is usually a normal marking behaviour in entire males (un-neutured) and in most animals out of the house. Some of these apparent toileting problems can have a medical basis so if you are unsure always get a vet to check your cat.
For any kind of spraying/urination, cleaning the area properly is very important to prevent recurrence, try the following procedure:

1. Clean the area with a 10% solution of a biological or enzymatic washing powder / liquid.
2. Wipe area down with cool clean water and dry.
3. Spray area with a low-grade alcohol such as surgical spirit through a plant mister.

Remember to check for colourfastness first.

As with many problems it is a wise to have a veterinary check up first in case it is related to a medical problem. Subtle changes can cause stress and spraying, and sometimes you may not even know of any changes. If there is a cat flap this can lead to insecurity even if your cat has been fine in the past, so it may help if it is blocked initially. Basis of treatment involves reassuring your cat that it's territory is safe and not under threat, giving lots of attention and feeding tasty foods. Pheromone sprays can be obtained from a vet to make your cat feel more settled but the area must be properly cleaned first. The longer this problem continues the more difficult it is to stop.

As celebrations for bonfire night now seem to go on for longer than a single night, we urge everyone to follow the animal-friendly firework code. Loud firework bangs and dazzling displays of flashes in the sky can be particularly terrifying to animals. They get frightened and confused, run away and are often lost or injured. Bonfire heaps are also a danger. They attract small hibernating animals like hedgehogs that perish when the fire is lit. We can help animals avoid suffering firework and bonfire injuries by attending well-planned, organised events and firework displays as far away from farm animals and residential areas as possible.

In order to keep your pet safe during this time, we advise owners to follow the tips below.

Preparation:

• If your pet is particularly sensitive to loud noises, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice on medication. There are some homeopathic remedies available to relieve stress but please consult your vet before supplying your pet with any of these remedies.
• Provide a litter tray for cats if they are used to having garden access.
• Remember to secure doors and windows.
• Build bonfires as late as possible and make a final check for animals before they are lit.
• If you are having a firework display or bonfire, warn neighbours and local farmers in advance so they can take precautions. Ideally, why not go to your local community display?
• Ensure your pets' identification is current so if they do get away local authorities are better able to help return them to you.
• You pet may find toys and treats comforting and distracting so ensure you have a supply of their favourites.

During the evening:

• Cats should be moved from the garden and taken into a garage or outbuilding or within the home, before it becomes dark. Curtains or blinds should be drawn before fireworks celebrations begin.
• Turn on the television or radio to drown out the noise and for reassurance.
• Monitor your pets' behaviour but don't fuss over them or crowd or your pets will pick up on your anxieties. You should keep to their normal routine as much as possible.
• Never let off fireworks near any animal. Horses and livestock in nearby fields will be terrified.

The day after:

• Always clear up after a bonfire party with fireworks - litter is hazardous to domestic and wild animals.
• Anxiety may continue for one or more days after the event so please watch your pet for signs of stress and continue to make them feel safe and secure.

Scratching is a perfectly normal behaviour that has a number of very important benefits. These benefits include:

1. Sloughing off of dead nail sheath
2. Visual marker for other cats to see
3. Scent markers, glands in the pads deposit scent as the cat scratches
4. Conditioning of the muscles required for the retraction of the nail

For cats that spend a great deal of the day outside, scratching in the home is rarely a problem as tree trunks provide a perfect surface for scratching. Cats will generally not scratch in the home if a suitable site for this behaviour is provided.

Encouraging the use of a scratching post.

• Some cats do not like the sisal that is wrapped around many commercial scratching posts. Try covering it with carpet (comb first to ensure that there are no tight loops that your cat claws can get caught in) or come other material that your cat may prefer.
• It should be in a prominent position in the room near to areas that are already preferred for scratching. Once your cat uses it reliably you can begin to more it into a more suitable position in the room, but hiding it out of the way may just mean your cat will revert back to previous scratching positions. Place a scratching post close to sleeping quarters as well.
• Consider the surface that your cat is currently scratching. Some cats would rather use a horizontal rather than vertical surface and vice versa. Cats often have more interest in a scratching area if it is more of an activity centre, with places to climb up and different levels and perhaps a cubbyhole and appropriate toys. These can be shop brought or made at home.
• If your cat is responsive to catnip you can try sprinkling a little of this herb over the post to attract your cat. If not a small amount of oil from a tin of tuna can be rubber into the post.
• As long as your cat is not anxious try rubbing its paws gentle over the surface of the post.

Stopping your cat using your furniture for scratching.

• Generally cats have a preferred surface for scratching, usually surfaces that the cat can really get their claws into and drag them along. You can cover these surfaces with a loose fitting material or tinfoil that will be ineffective for scratching or using sticky tape that will feel unpleasant under their paws.
• Prevent your cat having access to preferred areas when you are not there to correct it.
• The use of citronella or eucalyptus type scents is very unpleasant to cats. Your cat will be reluctant to approach these scents. But this does have its drawbacks, as cats have every sensitive noses this can have a profound effect on your cat. If the scent fills the whole room the cat may be unhappy about going in there at all.
• Punishment will not stop scratching and often will only mean your cat will just scratch when you are not there. A sound deterrent can be used to interrupt your cat but should not be seen to come from you.

Attention seeking?
If your cat is scratching to attract your attention then it is very important that you ignore it. Any attention directly from you even shouting is likely to be seen as reward for this behaviour. Some cats use this behaviour to get their owners undivided attention. If your cat only scratches when you are in the room (some even give a cheeky glance towards you to make sure that you are watching) your cat may be trying to initiate some kind of desirable response from you. Do not give your cat any attention when it does this including eye contact, talking too or touching your cat. If your cat has been doing this for a while it may try harder initially to get your attention. If you give in then your cat will have learnt to try harder to get what it wants.

Most kittens are taught to use litter trays by their mothers. If your kitten's mother has not taught your kitten you may have to help. Place the litter tray in a convenient place for the kitten but not too near it's feeding bowls. Fill the litter tray with some litter. Some cats have preferences for particular types of litter, such as wood shavings or pelleted wood or newspaper, mineral litters, or garden soil. If your cat has been used to going outdoors sometimes mixing soil with the litter can help. Change the litter tray once per day per cat. Changing too often can confuse your cat as some residual scent gives your cat an idea of how to use the tray. Lift your kitten into the tray when he first wakes, as this is the time he will need to "go". After feeding repeat the process. If your kitten looks like he is searching for a place to go then lift him into the tray again. If your cat has an accident then do not use ammonia-based cleaners as this may attract your cat back to the area.

This is usually related to some kind of stress or upset, but may be related to a medical problem so it is a good idea to get a vet check. If the problem is related to separation see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?". Usually it's advisable to use housetraining advice to retrain your dog when other issues are resolved.

This can be very traumatic and upsetting for cats. You are often distracted and stressed and this can rub off. The period before moving is also stressful, i.e. packing of boxes. It is often advisable to put pets into a cattery or even send them to stay with someone that they know. Try to keep them away until the move is completed and the house is pretty much in order. When your pets are brought into the new house there must be time devoted to settling in, familiar bedding etc is good but do not let basic rules go, as this will confuse matters in the long run. Allow your pet quiet time to explore its new surroundings, keep your pets out of the way of any building work or decorating that may also be going on. Make sure your pets know where food and water bowls are and where they can go to the toilet. Cats should probably be kept in for a period of at least two weeks to allow them to settle in their new home before letting them out.

Moving to a new home can be very stressful both for you and your cat. Not only can the move itself be upsetting but the process of settling in can also have its problems. Below are a few tips to help this relocation be as stress free as possible for your cat.

• Before you begin packing you should ensure that your cat is kept out of the way. Ideally a short stay in a cattery or with someone they know is preferable to exposing them to the move and also stop you worrying too much about them.
  Alternatively, keep the cat in one of the quietest rooms away from the activity with their own bed, food and water bowls and litter tray.
• On the day of the move ensure that your cat is secure and away from the removal activity, you may need to put him/her in a cat basket so that they do not run off if the doors are accidentally left open and he/she is frightened.
• When the time comes to move them to your new home do it either before the removal of your belongings or after the rest of the move has occurred if possible. Place your cat in a quiet room again with his/her own bed etc and one or two familiar items such as a chair, blanket or cushion.
• Your cat should be confined for the first few days until you have done most of your unpacking to minimise the change that they experience. After this you can let your cat out for a little wander around with you. If he/she seems relaxed and grooms happily then your cat should settle but if he/she seems stressed confine to the one room for a few days letting your cat out for short periods for attention and feeding when the house is quiet. Keep food/water and litter trays in the same place to try and keep your cat as settled as possible.
• Try not to move things around too much while they are settling in and keep them away from any workmen, as this will be even more unsettling.
• Stick to normal feeding and play routines.

The key to any move with a pet is continuity and positive reinforcement.

How long should I wait for letting my cat outside?
If kept in for a few weeks your cat will probably want to stay close to your home initially. If you live close to your old home it is possible that your cat may go back there, this is because when exploring your cat may recognise its old territory. In this case keep your cat in for a little longer. Cats are very adept at creating a map of the area in their minds based mainly on scent and some visual markers, which they will be able to recognise and should be able to find their way back to their new home once settled in for 2-3 weeks.
When you first let your cat out make sure that it is before he/she is due to have a meal and during the day, this way your cat will be hungry and unlikely to wander far. You will then be able to call your cat back for food. This will work better if you stick to regular meal times as close to those that your cat has been used to.
You should also consider if your cat’s new environment is very different to what they are used to. For example if you live near a road and you are used to living in a very quiet location then your cat may not know how to deal with traffic and be at extra risk, so take extra care when you first let him/her out.

It is virtually impossible to predict how one cat will respond to another. Personalities may clash! But please follow these general guidelines:

1. Take it slow, it is harder to repair damage than to prevent it.
2. Spend extra time alone with each pet.
3. Allow frightened animals a chance to get away from stressful situations, do not block escape.
4. Consider owner and animal safety.

Phase 1

• First few days, confine new cat to one room with a litter tray and water, spend time in there with it.
• Resident cat will smell and sense intruder, reassure resident cat.
• Feeding relieves anxiety, feed the cats either side of the door to the room where the new cat is confined, moving bowls closer together.
• Move only as quickly as both cats seem comfortable with.
• Confine resident cat to an area that it is comfortable with and allow new cat to explore house until both seem relaxed. This may take days or weeks.

Phase 2

• Arrange for a time when both cats can roam freely together. Coincide with meal times. Expect some hissing and hesitation while they assess each other.
• Feed your cats in each other's presence at a comfortable distance apart and then separate again. If either will not eat, try again later when they are relaxed.
• Allow them to spend longer and longer together after meals and move food bowls closer.
• Only consider the use of medication if absolutely necessary and under the direction of a vet or behaviourist.
• Resident cat's emotional state should be given priority over the newcomer.