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When should you consider neutering?
From around the age of 6-8 months, puppies reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing puppies themselves!
Some veterinary surgeries will advise that the best time to have your female dogs neutered is before their first season and others may say afterwards, but none will do this during the season, preferring to wait 6-8 weeks after a season to perform the procedure.
Most surgeries will recommend neutering a male dog at 6 months of age.
It is advisable to keep your dogs on a leash at this time, as female dogs may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age. We would also recommend not leaving your dog tied up outside shops during this time for the same reasons.

Why neuter?
The benefit of having dogs neutered far outweighs the consequences and is a very responsible thing for a dog owner to do.
Neutering a dog - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual activity. It also reduces the risk of false pregnancies and certain diseases such as mammary tumours, pyometras (uterine infection) and testicular tumours.
Once sexual maturity is reached, the female will begin to come into season. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur twice yearly and will only stop once your dog has been spayed. Signs of a season may include inappetance, lethargy, frequent urination and a swollen vulva.

How can I tell if my dog is pregnant?
If you do not get your dog spayed, they may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your dog is pregnant until 5-6 weeks after breeding. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks.
We would recommend taking your dog to the vets for a check-up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet will be able to advise on the best course of action.

What changes should I expect after neutering?
In the male, you may find that your dog will not stray as much (to find unneutered females), may become calmer and may cease any aggressive behaviour or sexual behaviour such as mounting or marking their territory with urine, but it will not change their basic character.
Dogs usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually lively again.
It is important to remember that once a dog has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. This is because it may become less physically active due to no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your dog start to put on too much weight.

Every dog is an individual. Like people, some pets put on weight more easily than others and need less food to keep them slim and fit, while others need extra to keep them at their ideal body weight. Feeding guides are as accurate as possible, but some pets may need less or more than this "ideal".
Assess your dog’s body condition by trying to feel it's ribs - you should just be able to feel them under a firm covering of flesh. There should be a waist between the ribs and hips and the tummy should be tucked up. Feed your pet less or more depending on how your dog measures up to this ideal. Once your dog is at the ideal weight further slight adjustments may be necessary.

Most dry foods can be fed either dry or soaked in gravy or with water. As a rule most cats prefer to eat their food dry and it usually becomes less attractive to them when soaked. Some dogs also enjoy the food dry while others may prefer soaking. This is usually the case if the dog has been used to eating a canned food before. Soak the food in warm water and allow to cool before offering it to these dogs. Remember that gravy can be quite salty and there is usually no need to offer this with a dry complete food that contains all the nutrition a dog needs. The time for the food to soak will vary according to the particular food but as a rough guide 30 minutes is usually enough.

Diabetic dogs usually need to be given insulin every day. In many cases your dog can be fed the same food she has always had, provided that you give her the same amount of food, of the same type, at the same time every day. Without following a regular routine she will prove hard to "stabilise" on her insulin. If your dog is very difficult to stabilise or also has a weight problem then your vet may prescribe a special diet to help avoid any fluctuations in her blood sugar level and to keep the weight down.

All dogs need and appreciate regular grooming. Grooming not only helps your dog look his best but also keeps him clean and healthy. These sessions not only stimulate the circulation and improve muscle tone, but also give you the opportunity to check for any potential problems such as lumps, bumps or mats or external parasites. Other benefits also include the removal of excess hairs from his coat that may end up on your furniture or carpet and of course the chance to spend extra time with your dog, therefore increasing the bond between the two of you.
Coat condition is also a good indicator of overall health and an ideal opportunity for you to notice any changes in your dog’s coat.
Normally, the coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise discussing these changes with your veterinary surgery.

Certain breeds may require more grooming than others. For instance, longhaired dogs may require clipping on a regular basis as well as a daily routine. Basic equipment may differ with each coat-type as well. Longhaired dogs may need a long tooth comb, whereas short-haired dogs may need a coarse brush. However, grooming may be quite painful for some dogs, particularly if they are not used to being groomed or are experiencing health issues. Even if you think you are being very gentle your dog may feel otherwise. This can lead to a negative experience for your dog and make the sessions worse each time you attempt to groom him.

In cases such as these a soft grooming mitt or rubber brush coupled with some tips, should make this experience easier for both of you.
If you experiencing difficulties, please email our team for advice.

Grooming checklist:

Brushing:
We would suggest grooming your dog at least once a day. A ten-minute session is normally adequate for most short-medium breeds of dogs. However, a long-haired dog may require slightly longer.

Feet & Nails:
Examine your dog’s feet daily (particularly long-haired breeds), to check for any matts or foreign objects between the toes (burrs/grass-seeds). Nails may need to be clipped if not being adequately worn down by daily activity. This may be something that you can do at home, however should you need any assistance, your vet will be able to provide you with some tips.

Skin:
Run your hands over your dog’s coat to check for any lumps, bumps or matts. Should you find anything out of the ordinary, please discuss this with your vet.

Fleas:
It is uncommon to find adult fleas on living on your pet as they prefer the to live in the environment and then periodically jump on your dog for food! However, you may find small black particles on your dogs skin, these may be deposits of flea dirt. If your dog has fleas, we would suggest discussing a flea-control program with your veterinary surgery.

Ticks:
These are small white parasites that gorge on your dog’s blood. They can be easily picked up from certain park areas or places that have dense vegetation. If you find one of these, they need to be removed very carefully so as to disconnect the whole part of the tick. Your vet will be able to do this.

• Avoid paper training if possible as it can encourage the dog to toilet in the house.
• Allow your puppy frequent opportunities to go out. Puppies are not able to reliably control their sphincter until they are 6 months old. Be sure to allow your puppy to go out immediately after feeding and sleep. Give regular meals and avoid snacking.
• Teach your puppy to walk on a lead so that you do not have to carry it outside to void. Activity encourages bowl movements.
• Once outside do not disturb your puppy if it begins to sniff or look interested in something, even if it is raining! When your puppy begins to go praise gently in a light voice, if you are too enthusiastic the puppy may stop. When your puppy is finished give it encouragement. Puppies can be taught to eliminate on command.
• It is pointless to punish for any mistakes especially if there is any delay in finding the mess. To be effective this must follow within seconds. If you do catch your puppy in the act, do not pick it up, but walk it outside and praise if it goes again. Clean areas soiled thoroughly to prevent encouraging the puppy to go back there. Dogs do not like to go near food or bedding so if your puppy is persistently going in one area move its food bowl there. Puppy crates or pens can be used to AID training but should never be used for punishment.

Why train my dog?
Training is essential in creating a channel for communication between you and your dog. This is important to ensure that your dog understands what is expected of it, is confident and relaxed and you can enjoy its company, after all this is why we want to share our lives with a dog!

What is clicker training?
Clicker training is a simple and effective method of training based on a positive reinforcement reward system. The clicker itself is a simple plastic box with a metal tongue. When compressed it emits a double 'click' sound. The clicker is used to reward a specific behaviour and works on most dog’s willingness to want to please their owners and earn their prize. The beauty of the clicker is that it is specific to the behaviour your dog is exhibiting at the time that you want to reward. Praise such as "who has been a good boy then!" is not going to be as effective in teaching your dog what is going to get it a reward and so it will take longer for it to learn. As the click is sounded as the behaviour is occurring there can be no doubt about what the dog is being rewarded for.
Clicker training uses your dogs own natural desire to learn and obtain a reward without having to use any force or punishment. If your dog does not do what you are trying to train it will not get a click reward and so will try harder to do what you want to gain recognition.

Why use a clicker instead of food lure training?
Using food as reward is still an essential part of training, at least initially. However, using food rewards alone has some drawbacks:

• Over treating can lead to obesity.
• Some dogs will grow bored and stop learning if the treats are not used correctly and they are either undesirable or the dog becomes full.
• The treat may distract the dog from understanding exactly what he did to earn the reward.
• Treating can lead to the dog to refuse to perform a task unless the treat is produced, and many of these dogs will end up only doing as they are asked when the treat is on show.

So how do I get started?
Like any kind of training begin in an environment that your dog is comfortable and relaxed in. Begin to associate the click with a reward by click-treat-click-treat-click etc holding the clicker out of view. Your dog will eventually begin to associate the clicker with a reward until the click becomes a reward in itself.

In obedience training you give your dog an idea of what is expected and then when he does it right you can reward him. For example 'lure' your dog into the sit position by holding a treat in front of your dogs nose and move your hand back over your dogs head. As he tries to keep the treat under his nose his bottom will automatically hit the floor, at this stage you can then click and treat. As you repeat this only give treats intermittently and introduce a command. Allow your dog time to work out what you want him to do and be patient.

Most people get a dog for the company, exercise and enjoyment that these hugely loyal and entertaining animals bring. However, in order to fit into and be accepted by society they are expected to behave in a certain way. We often expect our pets to 'know' this is how they are meant to behave without actually considering whether this is normal for them.
Knowing how to train your dog is not actually something that comes naturally and is a skill you will need to develop. Understanding more about how a dog thinks and what is 'normal' for your dog will help you to do this. It is important to remember that most of the time our pet dogs are keen to please and if they are not doing as you ask perhaps you are not being clear about what you want or are not using rewards, commands and your body language in a way that your dog understands.

When should I begin to train my dog?
Whether you have just brought home a new puppy or a rescue dog, training should and will begin straight away. Remember your dog can pick up bad habits if allowed to get away with certain behaviour when settling in that you later feel will be unacceptable. For example you allow your puppy to sleep in your room for the first few nights as he is crying, a few months down the line you cannot shut your dog in the kitchen at night because he barks the house down! So you should decide on the ground rules before your pet arrives and stick to them.

What will I need to get started?
Mostly you will need a bit of patience and a willing pet. You will also need a small, tasty treat to reward your dog with and a quiet room with no distractions to enable you and your dog to concentrate. It can be very helpful to join a training class for guidance, support and socialisation or work from a reputable dog-training book that works on a positive reinforcement method. Ensure that you have suitable training aids or equipment to hand such as clicker, harness, lead etc. Once your dog is performing a certain task reliably you can start to ask them to do this in a 'real' situation.

What should I train my dog to do?
You can train a dog to perform almost any task with clear concise commands and a suitable reward. Tasks fall into 2 categories:

1. Tasks that provide your dog with behaviour necessary for him to fit into society and keep him safe such as:

• House training.
• Socialisation with other dogs and people and situations your puppy will need to deal with.
• Come/recall command.
• Sit, stay, down.
• Walking to heel.
• Retrieving objects.

2. Tasks that are just good fun. 

• Giving paw.
• Beg.
• Shutting the door.
• Catching a ball/treat.

In puppies:
Chewing is a natural part of a puppy's development as they begin to explore their surroundings. 

• Punish only if caught in the act otherwise this is pointless.
• Ignore any mess and clear up and remove your puppy from the situation until calm.
• Redirect your puppy's natural desire into appropriate chewing such as food balls, toys or long lasting rawhide type chews and praise when you see your puppy using these toys.
• Do not give articles of clothing etc to your puppy to chew as this may confuse it.
• You can use sprays such as bitter apple spray as a deterrent but they are not always effective and taste awful if you get it on your hands.

In adults:
If you think your dog's destructiveness is related to being left alone see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?"
If you think your dog's destructiveness is a way of seeking attention then be aware that pets soon learn that they will be rewarded with owners undivided attention when they chew something. The dog may overlook the fact that this attention is negative. You must make sure that you give your dog attention even when it is being good and quiet so that it does not resort to objectionable attention seeking behaviour.
Ignore any attention seeking chewing and redirect your dog towards appropriate chewing behaviour and praise any positive behaviour.

There are several possible solutions to try:

• THE PINEAPPLE METHOD. Put small chunks of fresh pineapple into the dog's food (do not use large pieces as this may induce vomiting). This gives the faeces a bitter taste.
• THE COURGETTE METHOD. Cook some courgettes until soft in a small amount of olive oil. A batch can be made and stored in the fridge. Give a small dog 1-2 teaspoons and a large dog up to 1 tablespoon with each meal.
• Bait faecal material with foul tasting substance. Beware the dog may develop a liking for this!

In addition to using one of the methods above you should also consider the following:

• The best way to correct this problem is to restrict access to faecal material, supervise all outdoor access and clean up immediately after.
• Reward good behaviour with a tasty treat.
• In extreme cases a basket type muzzle can be used.
• Provide a wide variety of chew toys and increase quality time with your pet.
• Some dogs use this as an attention seeking behaviour so ignore unless caught in the act.

Can be exhibited as barking, chewing, toileting and self-mutilation. A new pet or an older established one or an animal that has experienced some kind of upset or illness may exhibit these signs and a vet check may be necessary.
Please follow these general guidelines:

• For younger dogs, gradually accustom them to longer periods alone; precede these periods with quality time.
• Do not make a big issue out of coming in and leaving the house.
• Leave the dog with something desirable that it can only have when alone and that will keep it occupied such as food balls or toys.
• Do not punish mistakes or tell off for barking as this can increase anxiety and is ineffective. Punishment should only ever be used if the animal is caught in the act and even then is not very useful. Any mess should be cleared up when the animal is out of the room.
• Reward good behaviour, for example any time the dog is sitting quietly.
• Most damage is done within 10 minutes of departure. Anxiety is increased by the owner’s routine so change this to allay anxiety.

Reaction to phobias may vary. Tread gently as it is possible to make matters worse. It is important to go only as quickly as your pet will allow as fear may turn to aggression if your pet is pushed into a situation with no avenue for escape.

Fear of Fireworks:
As celebrations for bonfire night now seem to go on for longer than a single night, we urge everyone to follow the animal-friendly firework code. Loud firework bangs and dazzling displays of flashes in the sky can be particularly terrifying to animals. They get frightened and confused, run away and are often lost or injured. Bonfire heaps are also a danger. They attract small hibernating animals like hedgehogs that perish when the fire is lit. We can help animals avoid suffering firework and bonfire injuries by attending well-planned, organised events and firework displays as far away from farm animals and residential areas as possible.

In order to keep your pet safe during this time, we advise owners to follow the tips below.

Preparation:

• Give your dog a good long walk to ensure fear is not increased due to an over abundance of energy. It also provides an opportunity for your dog to relieve himself as he may not be comfortable going outside later in the evening.
• If your pet is particularly sensitive to loud noises, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice on medication. There are some homeopathic remedies available to relieve stress but please consult your vet before supplying your pet with any of these remedies.
• Remember to secure doors and windows.
• Build bonfires as late as possible and make a final check for animals before they are lit.
• If you are having a firework display or bonfire, warn neighbours and local farmers in advance so they can take precautions. Ideally, why not go to your local community display?
• Ensure your pets' identification is current so if they do get away local authorities are better able to help return them to you.
• You pet may find toys and treats comforting and distracting so ensure you have a supply of their favourites.

During the evening:

• Dogs and other pets living outside, such as rabbits, should be moved from the garden and taken into a garage or outbuilding or within the home, before it becomes dark. Curtains or blinds should be drawn before fireworks celebrations begin.
• Turn on the television or radio to drown out the noise and for reassurance.
• Monitor your pets' behaviour but don't fuss over them or crowd or your pets will pick up on your anxieties. You should keep to their normal routine as much as possible.
• Never let off fireworks near any animal. Horses and livestock in nearby fields will be terrified.

The day after:

• Always clear up after a bonfire party with fireworks - litter is hazardous to domestic and wild animals.
• Anxiety may continue for one or more days after the event so please watch your pet for signs of stress and continue to make them feel safe and secure.

Longer Term Measures:

• You can purchase tapes of fireworks sounds to accustom your dog to them during training. These basic training skills can be used under normal circumstances i.e. when there are no fireworks in the neighbourhood:
• When your dog is under control and relaxed, play a tape at very low volume so it is barely audible and encourage your dog to perform tasks in an area where it feels safe. Give generous praise and reassurance.
• Gradually increase the volume at a rate with which your dog is comfortable.
• Training sessions should be short and frequent.

This training procedure can also be used for other sounds such as thunderstorms.

Fear of cars:

• May be related to confinement, movement or the destination. Gradually expose your dog to the car in an unthreatening way and take your dog to places that are fun for you and your dog!
• Spend time with your dog in a parked car with doors open and ignition off. You can feed meals in the car, give tasty titbits and reassure. If your dog is too scared to eat in the car feed it a distance away and gradually get closer.
• When your dog is comfortable eating in the car you can try it with the ignition on.
• Close the doors, but keep windows open.
• Make a very short journey to somewhere nice like the park.
• Gradually increase the length of the journey.
• Your dog should be kept on a lead while doing this, but do not use the lead to restrain your dog if it is frightened. If your dog panics and pulls then you have moved too quickly and need to take a step back.

Fear of vets: 

• Do not just make journeys to the vet when your dog is ill as this creates negative associations. Most practices will indulge visits for nervous animals just to come in and be handled by a nurse and to be fussed over and given treats.
• Try giving treats that your dog loves and can only have when at the vets.

Although puppies should not be allowed to have any direct contact with an unvaccinated dog or an area where unvaccinated dogs may have been this does not mean that they are not allowed outside at all. In fact a balance should be made between ensuring that the puppy is not at risk of disease and adequate socialisation. You can allow your puppy to have access to safe and secure outside areas where you can be sure that no unvaccinated dogs or any foxes have been. Toilet training an adult dog needs the same techniques and patience as a puppy so read on…

How long will it take to toilet train my puppy?
The length of time it takes for a puppy to become house-trained can vary widely. Some may pick it up almost instantly while others may take as long as six months. Remember, puppies are not able to reliably control themselves until they are about 6 months old so you may experience the occasional accident. The speed of litter training will depend on the puppy but also the amount of time and effort that you put in.

Should I teach my puppy to use newspaper?
Paper training is fine but can lead to some problems by encouraging your puppy to go the toilet in the house, albeit on paper will make it much more difficult as the puppy gets older to teach it that this is now wrong and that they should go outside. Also if urine soaks to the carpet, it can be very difficult to remove the scent sufficiently so that the puppy cannot smell it and be attracted back to that spot. If you do decide to use newspaper then lay a sheet of polythene underneath to prevent urine soaking through.

What is the most effective way to toilet train my puppy?
The simplest way to house train a puppy is to try and make sure that you do not allow your puppy the opportunity to make a mistake. This basically means that you should ensure that you take your puppy to the place you want it to eliminate at times when you can predict that the bowel and bladder will be full. This will be after meals, drinking, sleep and activity or play
Lead, rather than carry, the puppy outside (or to the paper if you have chosen this method), when the puppy begins to sniff around and circle as if it wants to eliminate then begin to praise, gently so that you do not distract the puppy. You can teach your puppy to eliminate on command by matching this with a command such as 'Hurry'. When your puppy has finished you can then give plenty of praise and perhaps a treat as reward. The more often you do this the quicker your puppy will pick this up. You should ensure that your puppy is supervised as much as possible so that you can prevent mishaps.

What should I do at night or when I cannot be there?
When they are very young puppies often need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours. To prevent them from getting into the habit of eliminating in an inappropriate area you can use a puppy pen or indoor kennel. These can be useful when toilet training a puppy if they are used in the right way. A kennel should not be used to put the puppy in if it does not like it, or as a punishment or just to keep it out of the way of the comings and goings in the house. The kennel should be large enough for the puppy (consider the size he will be when he gets older) to stand up in without stooping, lie flat out in and turn around it. It should contain its bed, water bowl and any toys you want to leave.
Initially encourage your puppy to go in there by giving it attention and treats while in there, your puppy will learn that this is a safe place to be where it can go whenever required and can sleep in there. When the puppy is happy to go in there and sleep with the door open you can start to shut the door for short periods until it is comfortable with this. Ensure that the puppy is tired when in the kennel so that your puppy will just want to sleep and is not full of beans!
Indoor kennels or pens can be useful in puppy toilet training as they do not like to go to the toilet in their bed and feeding areas, this is an instinctive behaviour designed to keep the nest clean. However, if your puppy does have an accident you should not punish this.

What should I do if I catch my puppy toileting in the house?
Avoid the temptation to run up to the puppy, grab it off the floor and whisk it outside. This will confuse the puppy rather that teach that this is wrong. Instead interrupt the behaviour and lead your puppy outside to the right place. If your puppy shows no signs of wanting to go again, play a game and see if this stimulates them.
Punishment of any kind is rarely useful in toilet training puppies, no matter how frustrated you get. Remember your puppy is not doing this to purposely annoy you, it may have been caught short or not quite understand what you have been trying to teach. Punishment is especially ineffective if there is any time between your puppy eliminating and when you find it. If you find a puddle it is better to clean it up and simply concentrate on showing your puppy the right thing to do. Review what you have been doing so far; are you taking the puppy outside often enough? Are you being quick enough with your praise?
Rubbing their noses in their mess or showing them it after are unlikely to be effective and will probably frighten your dog. They will probably not associate your anger with the puddle in front of them.

This is usually related to some kind of stress or upset, but may be related to a medical problem so it is a good idea to get a vet check. If the problem is related to separation see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?". Usually it's advisable to use housetraining advice to retrain your dog when other issues are resolved.

This can be very traumatic and upsetting for dogs. You are often distracted and stressed and this can rub off. The period before moving is also stressful, i.e. packing of boxes. It is often advisable to put pets into boarding kennels or even send them to stay with someone that they know. Try to keep them away until the move is completed and the house is pretty much in order. When your pets are brought into the new house there must be time devoted to settling in, familiar bedding etc is good but do not let basic rules go, as this will confuse matters in the long run. Allow your pet quiet time to explore its new surroundings, keep your pets out of the way of any building work or decorating that may also be going on. Make sure your pet knows where food and water bowls are and where they can go to the toilet.